Stery LG110 FT and S&B 12.5-50

[jgoodz]

Alright well I just got Photoshop and will start playing around with it. I was thinking I can most likely just use CAD/CAM software to make this as well, not sure why I never thought of that before


I was thinking, once I get the marking all done and tested I will probably just engrave them using a indexing head and a 1/64" or 1/32" endmill

[Keyrigger]

If you print them on label, you can alter the spacing without the finality of the tooling. I am thinking you are using an altered scope mount for the pointer to sit in and of course, an indexing head will make it fairly easy to set the number of stops per revolution. One last advantage is that you can alter the colours and hence, the contrast. I printed up white on black, black on white, yellow on black, black on yellow, and a few other test labels and found that my eyes pick up black on yellow better than black on white. You could always anodize, then come back and engrave the indexes. Have fun.

Don

[pirellip]

I purchased ScopeKnob software from here http://www.compufoil.com/download_sk.shtml a number of years ago and REALLY like it - it allows you to easily print off your elevation tape so that the actual yards are on it, and then easily change/update them as needed. No special math in the spacing etc, it takes car of all of it.

Don's method is great and a high end result, but I'm finding with shooting piston rigs, the trajectory can be a bit dynamic, so altering the number and printing out a new strip to tape on the knob is a 5 minute affair - remember how I brought a printer to the CDN Nats last year?

[jgoodz]

I purchased ScopeKnob software from here http://www.compufoil.com/download_sk.shtml a number of years ago and REALLY like it - it allows you to easily print off your elevation tape so that the actual yards are on it, and then easily change/update them as needed. No special math in the spacing etc, it takes car of all of it.

Don's method is great and a high end result, but I'm finding with shooting piston rigs, the trajectory can be a bit dynamic, so altering the number and printing out a new strip to tape on the knob is a 5 minute affair - remember how I brought a printer to the CDN Nats last year?

Hmmm tried to get a demo but it won't work...downloads & installs fine, won't run no matter what I do

[Keyrigger]

The last part of the replacement rifle was finished today. I had Len make up a new post and incorporate the base that Tim had designed and added. The new rifle does not have the wood fore end that my original did so it was time to update the design a bit and take care of one niggle that my original riser had. It was very difficult to line up on a below grade target. If I didn't have the hamster on the bottom, the height would have been perfect. This new height should do the trick. I discovered today why leather coats are so expensive when I made a trip to Tandy Leather to find some scraps for this cover. The raw piece was about 14 dollars all on its own and I still needed grommets, punches, and a soft faced hammer to put this together. What a day.....

Don

Knee Riser 1.jpg (135.45 KiB) Viewed 2047 times

Knee Riser 2.jpg (133.78 KiB) Viewed 2047 times

[Mac]

That looks great, Don. I, for one, know how much time it takes to get that leather on there properly. Not what I would call real difficult, but if you counted the hours, it would be expensive.

What it adds in stability will make it well worth it. March 23rd is coming up quick, so I am glad you have one more item crossed off the to-do list.

[Keyrigger]

It certainly does take a few hours to put it all together. What caught me off guard was the amount that I spent on extras to do the job that I never touched. While I was running around buying the leather, I knew I needed some tools to do the job. I bought 3/16" eyelets, the hand setting tool, and a set of unsharpened punches (note: Unsharpened) from the place I got the leather from. I bought the lace there and it does fit in the eyelets but I had a sinking feeling about that which bore true in the end. When set, the eyelet collapses as it is too long and it becomes too small for the lace to fit. I was still out and about so I got the punch and eyelet set from CTC after going to two stores to find them and at the same time, I bought extra eyelets (good plan to keep them all the same) but those were just long enough to allow a fold in the leather at the edge. I knew that I had a nylon faced mallet but realised that it was in a tool box that I left with my assistant. More money to get that. In the end, I never used the punches, mallet, 3/16" eyelets, and 3/16" setting tool. Forty dollars gone just like that, sigh......... but it did get done in one sitting, lol.

Don

[Keyrigger]

As a bonus to getting the adjustable aspect of the riser, it is also nearly 3/8lb. lighter (664gr = 1.35lb) than the factory original black riser (447gr = .98lb) which will help cut down a bit of the fore end weight when I shoulder the rifle for an offhand shot. I dug out the fore end riser of the 12fpe rifle and compared weight to the new one just for giggles, but without the hamster on it (that is down in the truck). Well, it is still heavier without the hamster on it at 454gr. (1.0lb. on the button). I know the hamster is only a couple of ounces but it is good that the direction has gone the right way from my original riser.

Don

[Keyrigger]

In the morning, I'll be heading to the range so I can get some confirmation sighting done with the rifle. I had been waiting for the knee riser to be finished so I could cut the foam out in the case. Funny that the case was the first thing I got and the last thing to be done, lol. See you all on the 23rd.

Don

[pumpmaster]

Terrible to read about the theft but awesome to see the new rig.
Looking forward to seeing it perform in person.